This morning it was pouring. We loaded up the car and headed for Ginnie Springs in north-central Florida.
We had a quick swim when we arrived at 4PM.
The water is a constant 72°F year round, though the air was in the low 60's.
We left our tent to dry and went to have another swim.
In Day FL we passed a roadside stand selling home-made pure cane syrup. We put $10 in the "SEFF-SERVICE" honesty box to get a big bottle of the Driver Family product. [Follow up: It's good! Especially on pancakes.]
We camped at Blackwater River State Park.
Florida takes pride in its state parks, and with good reason.
Blackwater River
Day 36 6 December Florida to Baton Rouge LA (292 miles)
The Blackwater River is known for its white sand. After breakfast and packing up we went for a walk on the white sand by the river. It squeaked as we stepped.
Alabama had a dismal civil rights record in the 1960's, but now promotes the history.
We'd hoped to visit the Mississippi Sandhill Crane Refuge, but it was Monday so the refuge was closed. After encountering the closed Ding Darling Refuge on a Friday, we were starting to feel paranoid.
By two o'clock we were in our fourth state for the day.
Day 37 07 December 2015 New Orleans LA (156 miles)
We drove from Baton Rouge to New Orleans for the day. The highway to New Orleans passed over a lot of water, partly Lake Pontchartrain and partly the Mississippi River.
Jackson Square had street artists and fortune tellers.
Window into the Past, French Market Yesteryear by Shakor N. Peters & Dumaine Sts.
Depicted in this mural are renderings of the people and the rich diverse culture that formed the unique mystique of New Orleans’ French Market that exists today. The artist has included famous New Orleanians from the 19th century such as Edgar Degas, world-renowned impressionist painter. Rose Nicaud, free woman of color who became first of the French Market coffee entrepreneurs. Baroness Micaela de Pontalba, the woman to be thanked for the most famous attraction in New Orleans, the building of Jackson Square and the Pontalba Apartments. Jacques the Butcher. Also, the most famous woman of color, Marie Laveau, the voodoo queen. [From https://www.frenchmarket.org/wp-content/uploads/2010/03/French-Market-public-art.pdf]
Depicted in this mural are renderings of the people and the rich diverse culture that formed the unique mystique of New Orleans’ French Market that exists today. The artist has included famous New Orleanians from the 19th century such as Edgar Degas, world-renowned impressionist painter. Rose Nicaud, free woman of color who became first of the French Market coffee entrepreneurs. Baroness Micaela de Pontalba, the woman to be thanked for the most famous attraction in New Orleans, the building of Jackson Square and the Pontalba Apartments. Jacques the Butcher. Also, the most famous woman of color, Marie Laveau, the voodoo queen.[From https://www.frenchmarket.org/wp-content/uploads/2010/03/French-Market-public-art.pdf]
Cast and wrought iron work on balconies.
The beignets are made on a production line where the dough is rolled out by a machine which then cuts it into 3-inch squares. These are deep fried and then coated with powdered sugar.
1 1/2 cups lukewarm water, 1/2 cup granulated sugar, 1 envelope active dry yeast, 2 eggs, slightly beaten, 1 1/4 teaspoons salt, 1 cup evaporated milk, 7 cups bread flour, 1/4 cup shortening, Nonstick spray, Oil, for deep-frying, 3 cups confectioners' sugar
Mix water, sugar, and yeast in a large bowl and let sit for 10 minutes.In another bowl, beat the eggs, salt and evaporated milk together. Mix egg mixture to the yeast mixture. In a separate bowl, measure out the bread flour. Add 3 cups of the flour to the yeast mixture and stir to combine. Add the shortening and continue to stir while adding the remaining flour. Remove dough from the bowl, place onto a lightly floured surface and knead until smooth. Spray a large bowl with nonstick spray. Put dough into the bowl and cover with plastic wrap or a towel. Let rise in a warm place for at least 2 hours.
Preheat oil in a deep-fryer to 350 degrees F.
Add the confectioners' sugar to a paper or plastic bag and set aside.
Roll the dough out to about 1/4-inch thickness and cut into 1-inch squares. Deep-fry, flipping constantly, until they become a golden color. After beignets are fried, drain them for a few seconds on paper towels, and then toss them into the bag of confectioners' sugar. Hold bag closed and shake to coat evenly.
Recipe courtesy of Paula Deen [Queen of southern comfort food.]
The government of Spain donated ceramic tiles to commemorate the years that New Orleans was the capital of Spanish Louisiana, 1762-1803.
Behind the square and towards Bourbon Street, the shops got kinkier.
Royal Street was closed to cars so that bands like this could perform. For a while after the terrorist attacks in Paris they didn't allow the street to be closed.
Jazz is played here each night at 8, 9 and 10 PM.
This street was being used as a movie set for a Jack Reacher film that takes place at Halloween. New Orleans streets are normally decorated for Halloween, but this was one.
Many wooden houses from the early French period burned down. The Spanish introduced a building code that prohibited wooden buildings. This is one of the few surviving buildings from French period. It was rebuilt after the fire from wooden river boats.
We got a muffuletta for a late lunch from this Italian grocery store across from the French market.
Muffuletta
Panorama looking from up river (right) to down river (left).
We headed for the LSU Rural Life Museum. On the way, Judith called to say there was an accident and major holdup on the Interstate to Lafayette -- the same route we need to take to get to Texas later today.
The museum had smaller items inside and a larger outside area where old farm buildings are on display.
Pioneer House circa 1810 built at Sunny Hill in Washington Parish.
Rural church.
In a corner of the outdoor display area there is a statue, Uncle Jack, with a long and revealing history. See below.
We got to Texas at 5pm, just as the Texas Welcome Center closed for the day.
Driving through Houston on the Interstate was not pleasant. Even the road signs were sobering,
but we were through the worst of it and the road trip became a lot more fun the next day.
Preheat oil in a deep-fryer to 350 degrees F.
Add the confectioners' sugar to a paper or plastic bag and set aside.
Roll the dough out to about 1/4-inch thickness and cut into 1-inch squares. Deep-fry, flipping constantly, until they become a golden color. After beignets are fried, drain them for a few seconds on paper towels, and then toss them into the bag of confectioners' sugar. Hold bag closed and shake to coat evenly.
Recipe courtesy of Paula Deen [Queen of southern comfort food.]
The government of Spain donated ceramic tiles to commemorate the years that New Orleans was the capital of Spanish Louisiana, 1762-1803.
Preservation Hall, 726 St Peter Street
As we were walking along Bourbon Street, a man walked out of a bar, took one look at us and said "Here comes a fun couple." Guess we looked like we'd just blown in from Kansas.
Moon walk along the curve of the Mississippi River.
Day 38 08 December 2015 Baton Rouge LA to Houston TX (349 miles)
Judith Oxley with Ellie, and Midge with Sophie and India, before Judith had to leave to meet with her class at the University of Louisiana at Lafayette.
The museum had smaller items inside and a larger outside area where old farm buildings are on display.
Introduction This bronze statue of an elderly black man was created to memorialize the accomplishments and contributions of the African-Americans in nineteenth century Louisiana. After a long and colorful history, the statue was acquired by the LSU Rural Life Museum from the Bryan/Ducournau family in 1974. History The statue of an old man tipping his hat was commissioned in 1926 and erected in 1927 at the foot of Front Street in Natchitoches, Louisiana. Set in a small park within a circular drive, the statue became a major tourist attraction as a one of a kind memorial to black workers of the nineteenth century. The statue has been known as the “Good Darky” and “Uncle Jack.” The original plaque (no longer visible) reads, “Dedicated to the arduous and faithful services of the good darkies of Louisiana.” Newspapers and magazines, including the National Geographic, contained articles and pictures of the statue and stated, “A visit to Natchitoches was not complete without a visit to the statue.” Jackson Lee “Jack” Bryan who was born in Mansfield, Louisiana in 1868 grew up on Hope Plantation, Natchez, Louisiana. Later Mr. Bryan moved to Natchitoches, Louisiana and became a successful cotton planter, oil mill owner, and banker. Moved by childhood memories, in 1926 Mr. Bryan decided to commission and erect a statue dedicated to the faithful service of black people who had played an instrumental role in the building of Louisiana. Hans Schuler, Sr. (1874-1951) was selected to sculpt and cast a statue in bronze for $4,300.00. Known as the “Monument Maker,” he graduated from the Maryland Institute’s Rinehart School of Sculptor in Baltimore, Maryland. Early in his career he was the first American sculptor to win a Salon Gold Medal in Paris (1901). He went on to be a great success, acquiring numerous awards and commissions throughout the United States. This statue is one of his best known works, and it has national artistic merit. Uncle Jack Protested Even before the statue was cast, there was controversy. It was believed that much of the white community of Natchitoches would not accept a monument dedicated to Blacks. In a letter dated, June 15, 1926, Mr. Jo Bryan warned his brother Jack, that before the statue was created he should “offer the statue to the town council, and get their acceptance.” Also he cautioned that to erect the only statue in town to a Negro would not be tolerated by many white citizens in the community. In spite of these warnings, Jack Bryan continued with his project. The statue was generally accepted and later beloved by the white community in Natchitoches and throughout the United States. Across the country newspapers such as The New York Times praised the erection of the statue by Jack Bryan. Interpretation of the statue began to change, and everyone developed his or her own opinion of the statue. Many African-Americans did not see the statue as a positive memorial. In 1968, the statue became a subject of controversy when a group of Blacks actively protested its public presence. As a result of the adverse publicity and changing times of the 1960’s, “Uncle Jack” became a target of vandals, and eventually city officials decided to remove the statue to avoid racial troubles. The removal was to be secret, but city workmen notified Mrs. Jo Bryan Ducournau, daughter of the late Jack Bryan. Mrs. Ducournau was adamantly opposed to its removal. When she arrived, a chain had been wrapped around the statue in preparation for pulling it down. Mrs. Ducournau prevented the men from completing their task. Eventually the statue did come down, with the Mayor’s promise to properly store it. However, the statue was found a few months later lying in the weeds by a lake into which its base had been thrown. Once retrieved, the statue was then stored for four years at the Natchitoches Airport until a more suitable place could be found. “Uncle Jack” Comes to the LSU Rural Life Museum In 1972, LSU Chancellor Cecil G. Taylor, Johnny Cox, Director of the AgCenter, and Steele Burden learned about the statue’s existence. They presented Mrs. Jo Ducournau with a plan to loan the statue to LSU for a period of one year. Local Natchitoches organizations opposed this plan. They advocated returning it to its original location. Despite eight other requests for the statue, including one from the Smithsonian Institute, Mrs. Ducournau selected the LSU Rural Life Museum. Mr. Steele Burden, Miss Ione Burden, and Mrs. Jo Bryan Ducournau developed and shared a mutual respect and affection for the statue’s significance and preservation. In personal correspondence, Mrs. Ducournau expressed her pleasure that the statue had found a suitable resting place. Conclusion Uncle Jack is still controversial today. Individual reactions vary: to some, it is an honor; to others, it’s demeaning; and still to others, it is fond reminiscences. However, everyone will agree that it is part of Louisiana’s history. In the future is hoped that an accurate interpretation of the statue will be revealed not only to our visitors but also to ourselves. [From http://sites01.lsu.edu/wp/rurallife/2014/07/29/uncle-jack-bronze-statue/When we left the museum Google Maps found us a way around the traffic jam on the Interstate.
.oOo.
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